While dynamic and engaging, auto belay hands-free climbing challenges present a unique risk: participants may pull out excessive webbing for balance, creating a dangerously slack line. This can lead to uncontrolled swings or even ground falls upon descent. This white paper examines this critical safety issue and provides a comprehensive list of potential risk mitigation methods for operators. We explore the pros and cons of solutions such as dedicated staff supervision, using dorsal harness clip-in points to keep webbing out of reach, installing redundant auto belays, adding separate support features, and utilizing faster retracting devices like the TRUBLUE SPEED.

Auto belays have become a staple in climbing gyms, offering a safe way to climb top-rope routes without a partner. This guide covers everything you need to know about these devices. We explain what auto belays are, how the different internal mechanisms (magnetic, friction, and hydraulic) work, and why they are exceptionally safe when used correctly. Learn the essential safety checklist to perform before every climb. We also weigh the pros and cons, from the convenience of climbing solo and their value as a training tool, to the drawbacks like limited route selection and the inability to rest mid-route. Discover if using an auto belay is right for your climbing style.